Dining Out with Rob Balon: Peche

AUSTIN, TX - Peche is a beautifully conceived and executed kind of French comfort food restaurant that is augmented by a revival of the long-banned drink Absinthe.

Located on 4th in the building that used to house Malaga, Peche is the brainchild of former Cedar St. GM Rob Pate. His vision of a true Austin cocktail bar with complementary cuisine has evoloved into a place that is sophisticated yet eminently approachable. Can you tell I like it? New chef Jason Dodge, late of Vespaio, has taken over the reins and has implemented the classic philosophy of European cooking: less is more. And does this ever work at Peche. Consider the Pommes Frittes, crispy and tasty, easily the equal of Hyde Park's famous fries, and served with a killer aioli. They stand alone in their flavor and the compelling complexity of their texture. And the Pork Belly Confit evokes memories of Cibo's master chef Will Packwood. The first bite, and be careful to mix in the fig mostarda and fresh chiles, just explodes with flavor. The sublime tenderness of this dish is quite something to taste. The entrees are about what you might expect to find in a restaurant of this style.But that's only by desgination. Flavor is an entirely separate matter. the Barley Risotto is a great example of that. as summer squash and a dash of chevre are blended in to give this great balance and riveting tastes. And the barley works beautifully to round it all out. And then there's another classic: The New York Strip with pommes frittes and marchand du vin sauce. The sauce which features heavy doses of fresh butter and natural jus wakes up the steak like Rip van Winkle being aroused from a 20-year slumber. And consider the Seared Diver Scallops with brown whipped butter potatoes [a guilty pleasure of mine] and of course hericot vert in a subtle veal jus.I dare you to take one bite, albeit a nibble, and tell me you do not like it. The beauty of a place like Peche is that it works well for happy hour, and it works equally well for late night. And there is no one in the city!

Who knows Absinthe like Rob Pate? He's introduced me to a world of libations that existed in the mid 19th century. And here they are pairing beautifully with the menu items.of today. I've enjoyed Pernod, with the flavors of anise and fennel, and run the gamut to a lemoncello coctail with Tito's vodka. Got a question? Rob will make a recommendation. Got a palate? Then you need to head over to Peche as soon as possible.