Dining Out: Bellagio

AUSTIN - Bellagio is a lovely little Italian restaurant on 2222 near the entrace to Jester estates. It takes its name from an enduring classic in Northern Italy, Lake Bellagio. At the helm is Linda Bernadone, Red Sox fan [we'll forgive her for that] and passionate restaurauteur. And in the smallish kitchen, Chef Ryan Bouillet has established himself as both an innovative and consistently good culinary artist.

Their summer menu is about to roll out and I've been doing some tasting on the new items as well as old favorites. New is the Formaggio Caprino. This breaded and baked medallion of goat cheese is served with baby arugula and candied pecans, but most importantly, it's topped with the chef's amazing raspberry gastrique.The confluence of flavors is about as good as one can get in a dish like this.And Bellagio has a nice turn on the traditional Suppli. mozzarella cheese wrapped with risotto, breaded and fried, and accompanied with a sweet red sauce. The first bite is a flavor eruption that would rival Vesuvius.

For the salad course, try the Caprese. The fried tomatoes, balsamic and EVOO make for a very tasty transition to the entrees. Chef Bouillet has introduced some really interesting entrees for the summer as well. Consider, please consider the Sarzegna. I haven't tasted a dish like this since the heyday of David Bull at the Driskill. The breast is roasted and sliced and served over a ravioli stuffed with a confit from the duck's leg. The accompanying broth makes for a sensational summer dish. Also, Bellagio has a new twist on the usual veal saltimbocca. It's a Chicken Saltimbocca which features a roasted chicken breast seared with a caramelized onion, marsala sauce, and uber-tasty rosemary potatoes. The dish could be dry but the breast is not only moist but seals in a delightful flavor. It's light and perfect for the summer. And perfect for any season is the always in demand Oso Buco. This braised veal shank served with tagliatele pasta is one of Bellagio's superstar dishes. The meat falls off the bone into a lovely sauce made from a burgundy reduction. A tiny fork to scrape out the subtle marrow finishes off this classic.

Bellagio is firmly entrenched in ur Top 20 for good reason. It is consistently rewarding and the new summer menu should simply add another layer of quality to an already fine pedigree.